"Romulus! Hahahahaha!"
- Romulus, The Parrot
Packed and ready to roll... kinda
Bright and early - our bags already packed. Dad and I had been Itching to get back on the road again, and Peter had offered to drive us to Sale, which got us back on the Princes Highway to Melbourne, which is just like any other suburban city; a nightmare to hitchhike out of once you are there. So instead, we had an alternative route planned to get to Confest, which made a big arch around Melbourne:
- Pakenham (or "Packenham", depending on who you ask)
- Cockatoo
- Healesville
- Yea (pronounced "Yay" (I know, it's stupid...))
- Seymour
- Moulamein
After Moulamein, I had written directions to get to the festival site, but more of that later - at this time I didn't have a map, as I'd left my previous map at the campsite in Bega.
We thanked Pete as we left the car for his hospitality over the previous days, and began to thumb. Dad walked down the road, the direction we came and eventually rocked up with a ride that could pick me up too. This was quite convenient. We got dropped further down the Princes Highway, and proceeded to get one more ride to the Pakenham turn-off. We split again, and I walked for about 20 minutes to try and leave suburbia, quickly realizing it was only getting worse. Once at the edge of town (after walking for almost an hour) I got a ride from a hippie! I was stoked, and it turned out she was actually a Confest veteran of 14 years, and told me she hadn't gone for the last 3. I asked if she was going this year, and she said she was going to Renaissance instead (an art festival). She dropped me at Cockatoo, where I then proceeded to continue my usual routine of waiting for a ride. Eventually a mad old woman came to pick me up with her dog in some dusty old shit-box. She was fairly difficult to communicate with, as every second word from her mouth was a mumbled "fucken one time i fucken went
with my daughtrealbglgjhbdsg...", but she got me to Healesville where I got my map at a servo. Things were so far going quite well, except she dropped me at the wrong end of town, So I walked. And walked. And eventually I reached a hospital, ducking in quickly to fill up my water bottle (looking as if I was trying to nick morphine, what with the dreads and smelly clothes).
At this point I'd reached the other end of town.
I stuck out my thumb,
and met Mark.
Mark is one of my favourite rides to date, simply due to his character and the way anyone could take a look at the guy and know his life story immediately. He was a fairly stocky scary looking fellow in a singlet, driving a shifty brown sedan, sporting a Wild Turkey at the wheel, tattoos that read "Born To Ride" and a prosthetic leg.
"Hop in! Where ya headed?"
"Alex"
"I'm headed to Buxton, so that' half way"
"Perfect!"
Mark looked down at his bottle of bourbon and said with a grin "I'd offer you a drink, but I only brought the one!"
I liked Mark already.
We chatted a bit about where he was from and his family, as well as his family and the part of the world he was from. I avoided the questions about his tats, knowing full well where I might push the wrong buttons. We were headed through the Black Spur, the single most beautiful and untouched forest I have ever seen in my life. He explained that the particular road we were driving on was where most of the car commercials usually got shot if they wanted mountainous forests in the background of their Mercedes 4WD's. Fair go. It was very pretty, even from a moving vehicle.
Prettiest forest in the world
I hopped out at a servo just out of Buxton, where he said I'd likely get a ride. The first thing on my mind at the time however was that I needed to find Moulamein PRONTO, as I hadn't seen it on the map I acquired in Healesville. I went inside, and a couple of guys offered to let me sit with them and share their chips. How could I refuse, especially when they also gave me water and helped me plan my route to Moulamein, which was off my map somewhere west of Deniliquin.
The afternoon resumed as one might imagine; got a ride to Alex just fine, and the same went for Yea. Getting to Seymour proved to be much more difficult. I waited from four in the afternoon until dark trying to leave that town, but the only people who were headed west seemed to be rich old women with bowl cuts and fancy cars - not hitcher friendly. I needed a place to set camp, so I decided to stay in town. It was oats for dinner tonight, and a bed on a local park bench by the road under a barbecue shelter.
Five star accommodation in Yea
I was roughly half way, and it had been one day. My next stop would be Seymour, through which i would take the highway to Shepparton, which I had a hunch would be the size of Wagga Wagga. The next morning I woke with the sun and started thumbing early, to try and catch a tradie. Lo and behold, who picked me up? A TRADIE! (white utes are a good sign for hitchers). He could only take me half way to Seymour, but at least it got me away from Yea. When we arrived at his turnoff, I began to walk to find a good place to hitch from - there was nowhere on this particular stretch of road for cars to pull up. A camper van passed and tooted at me (this will be important in a later article) and I began thumbing, eventually getting a ride with a fellow going to my destination. We chatted a bit, and he needed to stop by a hardware store to get bits to fix this old sprinkler he'd inherited with his property. It was inside that I heard this horrifying fact on the radio:
THE SUICIDE RATE IN AUSTRALIA IS
AT ROUGHLY 50 PEOPLE
A WEEK!!!
NOT COOL!
I IMPLORE ANYONE WHO KNOWS SOMEBODY WHO IS DEPRESSED TO JUST BE THERE FOR THEM! THIS IS SICKENING! THE SUICIDE RATE IS THE HIGHEST IT HAS BEEN IN 10 YEARS IN THIS COUNTRY!!! WHAT THE FUCK!?!
So yeah that has to change. Anyways, my driver who I am now going to call Rod Stuart because I can't remember his name, took me to the highway, where I almost immediately scored a ride with another trade who was able to take me to the turnoff for Negambie.
This is where I met Helen.
Helen was the most normal person (aside from being a man with a name normally used by women) who I've ever gotten a ride with who has said something worth mentioning.
"Live for today
and hope for tomorrow"
- Helen
It's an expression we've all heard before, but something about hearing it while I was travelling really struck something in me, so I jotted it down in my Journal.
I needed internet. Well, not so much needed it as I was curious as to where dad was, and if or not he was behind or ahead of me, being a seasoned hitchhiker with ten years of experience (he needs a trophy or a medal or something). I got Helen to drop me at the KFC in Shepparton, which opened at ten, so I had to wait half an hour. I listened to Edward Scissortongue from my phone while I waited. After a fail with the Wifi there, I started to walk. And Walk. And walk. And walk. And walk. And walk. And awl- HANG ON A FUCKING MOMENT! THIS ISN'T A TOWN, IT'S A FUCKING CITY!!! I was sweating, frustrated, and I'd been walking for close to half an hour, my surroundings getting gradually more and more clustered with shopping centres and cafes, the Sun moving slowly across the sky, it's heat beating down on my face. I looked to a shopping trolley on the side of the path full of empty beer bottles and subway wrappers.
I had an Idea...
Ah, much lighter...
After a very long walk, I had finally at the edge of town. I was literally cheering. I started thumbing again, to see If I could at least get a ride to the turnoff that went to the Cobb Highway. A car pulled over, and the woman driving wound down her window. I told her where I was headed, and she told me the turnoff was literally a hundred meters down the road. She then asked if I'd met Romulus. Before the words registered in my head, she held up a blue cage with a bright green parrot the size of my forearm inside. It looked like it belonged to a pirate in a red and white stripy shirt with a hook hand, peg leg and eyepatch.
"Say hello to the man, Romulus"
"ROMULUS!"
My jaw dropped. It spoke. But. I. WHAT!?
It didn't end there either, because just before she drove off I cracked a joke about being abducted on the road or Wolf Creek or something, and the parrot LAUGHED!
"HAHAHAHAHAAAAA!"
Once again I was astounded. When she pulled away I must have looked completely retarded and dumbfounded.
I walked to the turnoff, and light grey clouds were beginning to fill the sky. I stuck out my thumb as a white ute passed me. I felt a brief moment of disappointment until I heard the screech of tyres against gravel behind me. I picked up my bag and guitar and jogged to the vehicle.
"Where ya goin?"
"Deniliquin"
"DENO! I CAN GO THERE! HOP IN!"
I clipped my bag to the mesh behind the drivers cabin (the tray had no walls) and hopped in the passengers seat. the first thing I noticed was that the whole interior was falling apart. The next thing I noticed was the driver. Something wasn't right as he swerved back onto the road, but I couldn't pick it yet. Maybe it was his filthy clothes, or his unshaven face. Maybe it was the way his head swayed, or the slightly creepy way he never made eye contact. I chatted with him a bit, and he kept reassuring me in a overly friendly tone that he drove around these parts all the time and that he knew the best way to get where "I was going".
Basically, he had to drive me to the end of a straight road.
He turned off it and began heading in the other direction.
I looked at my map and started to panic a bit. Fuck! Fuck! Fuck!; I feel like that should have been the name of my whole blog instead of just my first post.
"Where are we going?"
"Don't worry, I'll get ya there!"
"No, really, pull over and look at my map for a second"
SCREEEEEEEEECH! He slammed on the brakes and peered over at my map.
"What is the problem?" he said cooly, his head still swaying. I showed him where we were going, and showed him where Deniliquin was. He looked baffled - genuinely. I was starting to get the picture now; this guy wasn't going to murder me and wear my skin as pyjamas, he was just a little special.
"Ooooooh" he said, "I thought you said you wanted to go to Numurkah! Silly me" and with that he slammed on the pedal and swerved around back on the road we were meant to be on.
"I'm a good man, you know? I just like helping people" he said, not looking at the road - not really looking at me either.
Suddenly He pulled into a driveway with a screech. I peered out the windshield at a warehouse, and my nerves were back. There were men in leather gloves and berets loading an old truck, almost like the villains from the Tintin comics I read as a child.
"Um... what are we doing?" I asked, getting paranoid. He appeared to be on another planet, sitting completely still, gazing vacantly out the windshield at fuck all. His head abruptly flew back into his seat as if he'd been punched in the nose, and he yelled "I CAN DO THIS LATER!" as he screeched back onto the road.
Yep, he was nuts. Harmless, but nuts.
We chatted for a while, about hitchhiking and what it was like. He was adamant that it would be no fun and scary. I spent most of the time convincing him otherwise, and then we talked about his family. This guy was old fashioned as hell. He asked if I had kids. I told him I was only 18 and screw that. He didn't approve. In the end he only got me half way to the Cobb Highway. As I left the car I asked for his name.
"Charles" he said, and he screeched off in the other direction.
I stood on the side of the road once again, completely alone. There was nothing around me. No farms, just forest; no cars, just a dusty road. I suddenly had an epiphany; I realised I was free. Completely free. I could get lost on these roads, go anywhere. The world was mine, and it hit me in such a way that I actually felt euphoric and light, like I could fly. I was completely at peace.
I got a ride with a couple in a green 4WD, and I barely spoke to them. I was still on my high. They dropped me in a Town just before the highway whose name I'm uncertain of. I got a ride with another trade who took me to Mathoura. From Mathoura I got a ride with an elderly couple who took me to Deniliquin, a bigger town, but nothing I couldn't handle after Shepparton. A school bus passed me full of teenage girls, all waving and giggling. I chucked a peace sign and they threw some back. I got to the servo and asked a young fellow If he was heading to Moulamein. He said no, so I started to trudge down the turnoff to my destination. I was so close to Confest. I wanted so bad to rest, but I couldn't give up now. The guy from the servo pulled up alongside me and said "Will Pretty Pine do?"
I could have kissed him.
My directions told me that the Confest site was 30km out from Moulamein on the Pretty Pine road, and that the gate would be marked. All I had to do was get a ride with somebody on that road and keep an eye out for the gate.However, I expected Pretty Pine to be bigger. Maybe there was a town further up, but all I saw was a pub/motel. This was possibly going to make my chances of hitching a ride relatively slim.
I stepped inside the Pretty Pine Motel, and I could't believe my eyes. Quite literally the whole town was in there. There was:
- The barkeeper
- The local bald guy with a buggered leg and a beard
The whole town!
I bought a beer and skulled the thing down in half a second, possibly drinking half the alcohol consumed that afternoon. I left and began to walk. As I walked down the Pretty Pine - Moulamein road, The local bald guy with the buggered leg and the beard pulled over in his ute!
I was amazed he'd noticed me in such a crowded place, especially seeing as I was only in there for a short time. Anyway, he said he couldn't take me all the way to the Confest site, but he could get me closer. His property was 20km away from the gate. Anything was better than 80. We passed another ute with a tray full of dogs on the way, and when I got out of the car, the dog ute passed and the driver said " You goin' to Confest!? I'm going to drop my dogs off at my house, I'll be back in ten to take you there.
I was cheering again.
The driver came back and opened the door of the ute for me to jump in. I caught glimpse of a six pack of Coronas. All was well.
He told me his name was Doug, and he reminded me quite a bit of a close friend back in Sydney. He was super cool, and welcomed me to have some beers with him. We chatted about Confest, my travels, and about life in general. I was starting to feel a touch of destiny; I had felt it previously in my travels already, but never nearly as distinct. It was like something in my journey so far had sort of been a little too lucky to just be luck, or to better explain, like the butterfly effect was really being guided discreetly by something far more mysterious and distinct. When Doug said "Now It's around here, but I don't remember. That might be it there, but who knows..." I responded foolishly "Yep I reckon you are right, that's definitely it." He dropped me at a bare gate to a long path that went bend some thin tree cover. I could see a wool shed in the distance and a fire engine. I fared Doug well, he gave me the last beer and drove off.
As I walked down the path to the unmarked gate, the sun was setting to the west and I felt immensely satisfied. I couldn't wait to see dad's face when he saw I'd made it, my smug grin on and beer in hand.
I couldn't eat to share my stories.
I couldn't wait until Confest.
I'd made it.
To be continued...
Volunteering: the hitchhiker way...